Cooktops, heaters and gas lines installed, tested and certified. We establish what gas the property actually runs on first, because it changes everything downstream of that.
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Gas availability is not uniform across these river suburbs, and assuming natural gas is on the street is how a job goes wrong before it starts.
Some properties here run on bottled LPG instead. That is a perfectly good arrangement and a great many houses use it, but it is a different installation: different appliances, different sizing, different things the pipework has to account for.
Appliances are built for one gas or the other. Some can be converted by a licensed fitter with the correct kit, and none of them should ever be run on the wrong gas or converted by anybody without a licence.
So we establish that first, then quote the actual job rather than a generic one. It takes a minute and it is the difference between a fixed price that holds and a surprise on the day.
Leave the building, do not touch any switch, and ring from outside. Turn the meter or cylinder off on the way only if it is safely on your path.
Open the house up, get everybody outside, and touch nothing electrical on the way past. Ring from outdoors.
Turn the supply off if you can reach it safely: the meter for natural gas, the cylinder valve for LPG.
A licensed gas fitter answers when you ring us, and where the network's emergency crew is the right first call we will say so.
Availability varies across these river suburbs, so the first thing worth establishing is whether the street carries natural gas at all or whether the property runs on bottles.
Neither is second best. LPG is a perfectly good fuel and a great many properties on this side of the river use it.
A meter on the wall with a service line from the street is natural gas. Cylinders beside the building is LPG.
Appliances are manufactured for natural gas or for LPG. Some can be converted with a manufacturer kit that matches the exact model, and many cannot.
They run at different pressures with different injectors and burner components, so this is not a matter of adjustment on the day.
The data plate states which, plainly, usually underneath or on the back. A photograph answers it before anybody drives anywhere.
A listing gives brand, size and condition, and almost never the gas type. The seller frequently does not know it either.
So the appliance arrives, a fitter attends, and the answer is that it cannot be connected. On a property with a long walk in, that is a genuinely wasted trip.
One question and one photograph from the seller avoids the whole thing.
Upright, outdoors, in ventilated space, away from ignition sources, and away from openings that lead down to a lower level.
LPG is heavier than air and pools at low points, so a stepped block with an under-house space or a lower terrace needs that thought through rather than assumed.
Cylinders also expire, with a test date stamped on the collar, which is generally how people find out when a filler refuses one.
Adding an appliance is a calculation against total demand rather than a connection, and on LPG the regulator and cylinder capacity come into it as well as the pipe.
The input rating on the appliance plate is the number the calculation runs on, and a photograph of it is enough to start.
Where the sums do not work, appliances starve each other, and a burner that drops off when something else runs is nearly always this.
Distance from the meter or the cylinders to the appliance, and what the route has to cross, is what sets the price rather than the length alone.
On a stepped block a run frequently has to negotiate retaining, stairs and changes of level, and going around an obstacle is often cheaper than going through it.
So a real quote comes from somebody having walked the route rather than from a figure per metre.
Certifying a new cooktop on a line that is leaking elsewhere achieves nothing, so the existing installation gets tested as part of connecting anything new.
That occasionally finds something, and when it does we tell you before doing the work rather than after.
It is why a straightforward appliance swap sometimes turns into a slightly longer conversation.
The pipe is sized for how far it runs and how much it has to carry. The line is tested to pressure. The appliance goes in to its own instructions with the clearances they specify. The flue discharges where the standard says.
By the time you are cooking on it, all of that is inside a wall or behind a cupboard.
So the paperwork is not administrative overhead. It is the only surviving record of work you cannot go back and look at.
A Certificate of Compliance is issued by the licensed gasfitter and certifies that the work meets the standard. It is legally required and it cannot be recreated afterwards.
Keep it with the property papers. It is what an insurer asks for after an incident and what a conveyancer asks for at sale.
Gas fitting is licensed work in NSW and there is no small-job exemption, so unlicensed work leaves no record at all and is uninsurable.
Quoted at a fixed price before anything starts. These are indicative 2026 ranges and the Certificate of Compliance is included in every one of them.
The whole installation pressure tested, with a written result.
Connected, tested and certified, with the certificate handed over.
Depending on the run and what it has to pass through on the way.
Installed and certified, sized for the appliance rather than for convenience.
Legally required, and included on every gas job we do without being asked.
Natural gas or bottled LPG. It changes the appliance, the sizing and the quote, so it comes first.
Not only the fitting going in. A pressure test on the whole installation, so nothing is certified over an existing fault.
Installed and commissioned properly, sized for the appliance rather than for whatever was easiest.
The Certificate of Compliance issued on the spot, and worth keeping with the house papers.
Leave the building first, then call. Do not touch a switch on the way out, and ring us from outside.
Call 1300 381 569Get everyone outside first. Do not switch anything on or off, including lights, and do not use a phone inside the building. If you can safely reach the meter or the cylinder valve on the way out, turn it off. Then ring from outside. This is the one plumbing situation where we would rather you did nothing clever and simply left.
It depends where you are, and it is genuinely worth checking rather than assuming. Some properties around here run on bottled LPG instead, and that is not a lesser arrangement, it is just a different one. It changes which appliances suit, how the pipework is sized and what the installation has to account for, so it is the first thing we establish.
It changes the appliance and the setup rather than the possibilities. Appliances are made for one gas or the other, and some can be converted by a licensed fitter with the correct kit. What you should never do is run an appliance on the wrong gas or fit a conversion yourself. That is both illegal and genuinely dangerous.
It is the document a licensed gasfitter issues certifying that gas work was carried out to the standard. It is legally required, and it is the only record that the work was done properly. Keep it with the house papers, because insurers ask for it and so does a conveyancer when the property changes hands. We issue one on every gas job without being asked.
No. Gas work is licensed work in NSW and doing it unlicensed is illegal, uninsurable and unsafe. There is no exemption for a small job or for someone who is handy. If it is already in and you are not sure who put it in, that is worth having checked rather than wondered about.
Yes, as part of the job. There is little point certifying a new cooktop on a line that is leaking somewhere else, so we pressure test the installation rather than only the fitting we just put in. If something else is wrong you will hear about it before we leave, with a price.
A gas leak test on the installation is $150 to $300. A cooktop connected and certified is $250 to $500. A new gas point run and certified is $450 to $1,200 depending on the distance and what it has to pass through. A bayonet for a heater is $300 to $600. The compliance certificate is included in all of it.
Tell us whether the property is on natural gas or LPG, and what you want fitted. Those two answers get you a real fixed price rather than a range.
Whole installation tested, certificate issued as a matter of course, and the licence number on the quote before you agree to anything.
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